How to Rollerski: A Beginner’s Guide to Not Dying
Rollerskiing is the go-to dryland training method for cross-country skiers. It’s full-body, low-impact, and great for anyone who wants to build the kind of balance and power you can't get from running or cycling alone. If you're new to it, here's what you need to know before you roll out the door.
First and foremost you need to know two things about rollerskiing: there are no brakes, and you will look like a dork. Rollerskis are just two ski-like planks with wheels attached at either end and a binding screwed into the top. There is no brake. The only way to stop (other than bailing into the grass) is a wedge-style move similar to what you may use to slow down while going downhill on skis.
Now if you’re reading about rollerskiing than looks are probably not high on your priority list; however, just be warned, rollerskiing might be the pinnacle of nor-dorkiness. You can cut down on this by being good at rollerskiing, avoiding knee pads or wrist guards, and by choosing the right terrain (read: avoid busy areas).
Before you go to buy rollerskis and write out your summer training plan (skiers are made in the summer afterall…), read the sections below to get a full picture of everything that goes into rollerskiing.
Classic vs. Skate Rollerskis
All rollerskis are about two feet long and feature wheels at either end and a binding mounted on top. They come in two “flavors” to mirror the two cross-country ski disciplines:
Classic rollerskis have a ratchet mechanism in the front wheel that only lets it roll forward. This simulates the "kick and glide" of classic skiing, letting you push down without sliding backward on the pavement. You always have perfect kick with classic rollerskis. This is both a curse and blessing. The curse is that you can practice poor technique because it’s easy to just kick back on the ratchet rather than down to “set the wax”, like you would in the winter. The blessing is that you won’t ever loose kick!
Skate rollerskis roll freely in both directions, like inline skates, and are used to mimic the skating (freestyle) technique.
If you're only going to own one pair, think about which discipline you actually ski (or want to train for) on snow — the two aren't interchangeable, and the technique is different enough that most serious skiers eventually own both.
One thing to note when selecting rollerskis: the core material of the ski can greatly affect the ski-like feel on asphalt. Wood or foam composite core skis like those made by Marwe will feel more supple and responsive. Aluminum shafted skis, like Swenor, are more durable but don’t offer the same ski-like feeling. This can be especially noticeable on classic rollerskis where a wood shaft may flex, like a ski, versus a aluminum shaft stays relatively stiff.
The other factor affecting rollerski feel is wheel speed. You can buy different wheels with faster bearings or harder rubber but really you’re just cheating yourself. Hell, you could go buy rollerblade wheels if you really want to pretend you’re an olympian. Best to just use whatever stock wheels come with your skis, or select the middle-of-the-road speed when presented with an option.
Rollerski Poles, Ferrules, and How to Poke the Pavement
There are no rollerski-specific poles worth buying. I’m sure some company (looking at you Swix) has created a “rollerski pole” but that’s just a waste of money. Take your winter poles, put a rollerski ferrule on instead of the winter basket, and away you go.
The ferrule is the small metal tip that screws or glues onto the bottom of your ski pole so it can grip pavement instead of snow. Most regular snow ski pole tips will just slide on asphalt or the basket will snap off, thus why you need rollerski-specific carbide ferrules.
To install them:
Unscrew or unglue your existing snow tip. If you’ve got a hair dryer or a bowl of boiling water, use that to heat the hot glue to loosen your snow baskets. Avoid using a blow torch as you will melt and break your poles.
Check the diameter of your pole shaft — ferrules are sized to fit specific pole diameters, so buy the size that matches your poles.
Push the new ferrule on firmly until it's seated flush, or screw it in if it's a threaded style. The angled pointy tip should be facing forward.
They wear down with use, especially on abrasive pavement, so best to buy a few pairs each summer.
Rollerski Boots
Good news: you don't need special rollerski boots. Rollerski bindings use the same standard Nordic ski boot binding systems as snow skiing, so if you already have cross-country ski boots, they'll clip right into most rollerski bindings. Just double-check your binding system matches your boots before buying skis.
They make rollerski boots but you don’t need them.
Rollerski Safety
Rollerskiing on pavement is unforgiving in a way snow isn't, there's no soft landing. You are also likely around other fast moving objects like cars and bikes. You are also swinging six foot poles with sharp points. Also, not sure if you read above but you have no brakes. A few non-negotiables to not die out there (and, yes, people have died rollerskiing):
Wear a helmet. Always. Falls happen fast and asphalt doesn't forgive.
Wear sunglasses. They protect your eyes from sun, wind, road debris kicked up by your wheels or passing traffic, and from your idiot training partner who likes to really flick the wrists after he or she finishes poling - avoid the ferrule to the eye.
Gloves are optional but recommended. They help your grip on the poles, prevent blisters, and give you some protection if you catch yourself in a fall. You will get callouses without them but your hands might suffer in the short term.
Wear a shirt. Skin and asphalt do not mix — road rash from a shirtless fall is much worse than from a covered one.
Skip the knee and elbow pads. You will look even more of a fool. You may also find that they restrict the range of motion needed for proper technique, and they're not standard practice in the sport.
Consider a safety vest. Depending on where you are skiing, you may want a safety vest to increase your visibility to cars and bikes.
Practice stopping before you need to. This is the big one. Rollerskis don't have brakes, and slowing down or stopping takes real technique (a snowplow-style wedge, or stepping off to the side). Practice this on flat, easy terrain before you're relying on it to avoid an intersection or a hill you misjudged.
Don’t start rollerskiing if you are still learning to skate or classic ski. If you fall frequently on snow, then figure out how to ski on snow first. When you fall on the road, you’re not going to want to keep skiing.
Pick your route carefully. More on this below but know the roads or trails you’re headed out on so that you can account for traffic and terrain.
Where to Go Rollerskiing
Terrain matters more in rollerskiing than almost any other sport, because you can't just muscle through a bad surface or a bad line the way you might on a bike or on foot. You want blacktop asphalt, not cement. Your poles won’t stick in cement. You also want enough room to skate.
Good terrain:
Paved bike paths - ideally during periods of low bike/runner traffic, and avoiding times of the year with a high amount of tree debris on the trail.
Low-traffic asphalt streets you already know well. Suburb or rural roads can be really low-traffic and offer nice rolling terrain. Consider visiting on a bike first and assessing if you can safely ski there.
Avoid:
Uncontrolled intersections — you can't stop on a dime, so you want stop signs, lights, or otherwise predictable traffic patterns.
Steep downhills — your speed will build fast and your ability to slow down is limited; save hills for once you're experienced.
Train tracks, cattle grates, or bridge expansion joints — do you want to die? The gaps in these road features can catch a wheel and take you down instantly. Unless you’re skilled at jumping on rollerskis, slow down significantly if you need to cross any of these.
Tree debris or gravel patches — asking again: do you want to die? Gravel will stop your skis and you will fly. Wet leaves might not kill you but you will fall or slip.
Concrete roads — ferrule tips don't grip concrete well (it's smoother and harder than asphalt), so save concrete for actual skating, not poling.
Unfamiliar or sketchy areas — know your route. Breaking a pole or ferrule miles from your car in an area you don't know is a bad time, or a long run in ski boots.
Suggested Gear
Rollerskis themselves are a specialty item — you won't find them on Amazon. The two most trusted brands are:
Swenor — the most widely used brand among competitive skiers, with dedicated classic and skate lines. Also available through US retailers like RollerskiShop.com and Gear West.
Marwe — a Finnish brand known for smooth-rolling, durable skis, popular with racers. If you’re in the US, you can find them at Finn Sisu.
For ferrules, buy whatever size matches your existing poles.
For everything else, Amazon can
Helmet: any road/commuting bike helmet works fine — comfort and fit matter more than brand. I like SMITH helmets.
Sunglasses: any road cycling glasses work. I also like SMITH glasses but you could go cheap and get GOODr.
Gloves: See our guide to nordic gloves.
Safety vest: a high-visibility reflective vest is a smart add, especially at dawn/dusk or on shared paths. A well-reviewed example: Chiwo Reflective Vest (2-pack).
Water belt / handheld bottle: This one from Nathan seems respectable.
Rollerskiing has a real learning curve, especially around balance and stopping, but a few sessions in, it clicks. Don’t die, don’t worry about your nordorkiness showing, or go in the dark, and remember, no brakes. Ok, you got this.
